Martin Grant: The Creator of Timeless Style

Martin Grant’s designs speak to an elite clientele of sophisticated dressers who love his elegant and simple lines, shapes and fabrics. Q+A UK gets an insight into his life in Paris, his classic style, and an unexpected passion for landscape design.

DESIGNER Q+A |  | March 16, 2012

<p>Martin Grant opts for an intimate presentation at the Hotel De Crillon during Paris Fashion Week. For autumn/winter 2012, Grant returns to his roots with sculpted and structured shapes</p>
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Martin Grant opts for an intimate presentation at the Hotel De Crillon during Paris Fashion Week. For autumn/winter 2012, Grant returns to his roots with sculpted and structured shapes

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From his situ in Paris, Martin Grant has established himself as a creator of style. With a design signature that does not speak to the obscure and sporadic movements of ‘fashion’, Grant’s collections have attracted women who expect a refined and reformed version of his previous work. His designs have become known for their exquisite tailoring, shapes that create elegant silhouettes, materials that are practical, and functional, but always chic and distinctly stylish.

Moving away from his native Australia in 1990 to London and then on to Paris, it would seem that Grant has taken on the quintessential Parisian style. Like the women of Paris, his creations are understated and dignified, but there is an abundance of class and quality that shines through the luxurious materials, simplicity of lines, elongated silhouettes and feminine functionality.

His low profile approach to the fashion industry may be unusual, but it has nurtured a respect from key players and followers who will faithfully attend each show to observe his skill and knowledge about how to make simplicity stylish. From the moment he set up his first boutique in Paris in 1992, Grant has purposefully presented his collections to a small selected audience, enhancing the elite and sophisticated quality that surrounds his designs. This method has allowed him to maintain a strong and steady position within the industry, providing a somewhat refreshing approach to dress through his decision to create timeless designs that will remain current season after season, and offering a direct contrast to those collections whose radicalism provides an instantaneous rush for critics that will quickly fade when another designer goes one step further. Although Grant may have received criticism for his lack of adventure, perhaps it is more distinctive to see a designer remaining faithful to his philosophy and nurturing a style that he knows will consistently speak to his audience.

Working in the industry for over twenty years now, Grant has established a Parisian signature that evokes a careful handiwork appealing to his elegant clientele season after season. His style has attracted women like Cate Blanchett and Lauren Hutton, both of whom embrace Grant’s love for quality materials, craftsmanship, and feminine shapes. High quality coats that come in suede, cashmere, leather and angora wool, are sold worldwide in major stores from New York to Tokyo.

You only have to type Martin Grant into Google to discover his widely respected design philosophy and an absolute dedication to his clientele. While he keeps a very low profile, we wanted to get a little more personal with the designer. Q+A UK got an insight into his life in Paris, his classic style, and an unexpected passion for landscape design.

Fashion Q+A UK: Martin, you began your training in Australia, where you’re from, spent a brief year in London in 1991, then swiftly relocated to Paris in 1992 where you set up your own atelier. You’ve been based in Paris ever since. Would you consider yourself a Parisian and what do you miss about Melbourne?
MARTIN GRANT: I guess to a certain extend I am now a Parisian after 20 years of living here, however I still feel quintessentially Australian and miss the more relaxed atmosphere in Melbourne.

Q+A UK: When you’re off duty, where in Paris would we find you relaxing or enjoying a great meal?
GRANT: Probably at home! After years of restaurants and hotel food, I prefer home cooking.

Q+A UK: You were once quoted as saying ‘I’ve got that Australian thing of going in boots and all, trying things out and not being afraid of anything’ – everyone is afraid of something! Let us in on a secret, what are you afraid of and how do you dispel your fears and worries when they try to creep up on you?
GRANT: I am afraid of giving up smoking! And if I need to dispel this fear, I smoke a cigarette

Q+A UK: Your designs are celebrated for being elegant, sleek and wearable. What do you think has informed the chic aesthetic that is so typical of your work, do you have a particular woman or muse in mind and how do you continue to be able to reinvigorate a look that is so classic?
GRANT: My preferences when I started being interested in fashion were predominantly from the 50’s and 60’s Dior, Balenciaga, YSL. I think it’s this that has informed my classic aesthetic. As for muse, I prefer not to limit my designs to one type of woman. To reinvigorate is always a fine line that comes down in proportions and colour.

Q+A UK: Lee Radziwill, the sister of fashion icon Jackie O is a huge fan of yours. If you were to choose any another celebrity (deceased or alive) to pioneer your designs, who would this be and why?
GRANT: I find that, in this period in time, the are very few celebrities with their own sense of style. One who stands out for me and who already wears my clothing is Tilda Swinton. She has a strong personality and her own style.

Q+A UK: You have moved from showing your collections to small handfuls of guests in an old barbershop to regularly presenting collections at Paris Fashion Week. How important do you think location and audience are to the showing of your garments on a moving body and how does the location inform the perception of a collection?
GRANT: It’s always important to see clothes worn, especially when they are as simple as mine and are concentrated on cut. The models are chosen to add their personality or “look”. As for the location this often comes down to practicality. There are so many shows in a day that the primary concern is location and relation to the other shows.

Q+A UK: After soaring to success in the eighties, you chose to take time out to pursue an education in sculpture. You were becoming so successful and chose to diverge from fashion. After travelling, studying in different disciplines and becoming a successful figure in the fashion industry over the last twenty years, do you feel that there might be another path you may want to stroll down career-wise? If you weren’t designing clothes, what would your ‘plan B’ be?
GRANT: My dream is to work in landscape design, and I hope to be able to so this one day.

Q+A UK: It has been a steady, progressional climb to the top for you. Is this an approach you take in all aspects of your life and how has this informed your design process?
GRANT: It’s very important for me to take one step at a time in every aspect; I need to know that I am able to cope with situations in a solid grounded fashion.

 
 
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