From Kate Moss to Beyoncé , Julien Fournié is a go-to for A-list style stars. His show demonstrated his wearable approach to high-fashion.
Although Julien Fournié only launched his eponymous couture line in 2009, the Frenchman has done stints at some of the most prestigious fashion houses — Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Céline and Jean-Paul Gaultier — since graduating from the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in 2000. With such an impressive background, you can imagine our excitement for his show that was soon checked at the door. The show kicked off with a pounding bass and a blaring voice: “I am going to take you on tour.” A video was played in the background created by FashionLab, which showed people walking, cars driving, clocks ticking and a flash of metropolitan urban scenes followed.
Fournié considers his designs a “new couture” and that was certainly the case for fall/winter 2011, where he sent out a collection of menswear and womenswear that had street edge, but lacked street credibility. There were so many contrasting design elements that many of the looks felt overly thought out such as a black body suit with exaggerated shoulders complete with sparkly sheer pants and a dress with a large exposed zipper accented with an overload of black fringe pieces finished off with a printed cuff pant. The mixing and matching of masculine and feminine details did not work to his advantage. One look stood out from the collection and it was a high-waist black slim-cut trouser pant with diamond-shaped pockets that were fun paired with a noir textured knit blazer that had a flowy black piping material that tapped the urban rawness Fournié was so striving for. The shoes were also quite fun in the collection. Models stepped carefully in cork-soled platforms that resembled the tip-toe shape of a Barbie.
We like to see a designer take risks so we applaud Fournié for that, but we know he can deliver more. Stars like Kate Moss (June 11 issue of French Vogue) and Beyoncé (“I Care” song illustration) are donning his designs because of his new age aesthetic. Let’s just hope for spring/summer 2012 he rises to the occasion with both a message and design cohesiveness that delivers the sartorial ingenuity he is capable of.