‘Classic Dior but see through’ were Bill Gaytten’s words to describe his second couture collection for the house of Christian Dior. Clever craftsmanship was on display for spring/summer 2012 via sheer fabrics that drew our eyes to the classic process of dressmaking. The charm of the collection was its unfinished quality, as fabric with stitch marks outlining the structure were sent onto the runway. This was an ultra feminine collection with chiffon, organza and gauze leading the way. The full skirts were brought in at the waist in the iconic Dior manner, but in one look paired with a black crocodile scaled jacket lending a tougher edge to the classiness of the looks.

Gaytten sculpted each of the looks to ensure emphasis on the feminine silhouette, using pleats in the fabrics and deep necklines to give body and allure to each dress. White floral designs, checks, stamped leather and classic chiffon came predominantly in the form of full-skirted frocks or streamlined dresses. Swells of tulle made a nostalgic statement in grey and black hues, maintaining the signatory appeal of Dior.

This collection was full of mystery not only through the revealing, unfinished nature of the dresses, but also through the uncertain position of Gaytten. He has all the skill of a great couturier, but the industry continues to speculate upon the safety of his position. With his spring couture offering, Gaytten appeared to be stripping the Dior house back to its glamorous, femme and charming origin. Playing with construction and teasing us with flashes of the silhouette, Gaytten showed how the skilled artisanship at Dior remains as strong and as captivating as ever.