Riccardo Tisci makes an unconventional statement for spring with twenties inspired jewels and an avant-garde take on classic couture.
COUTURE-SS 12 | KATE WHITE | January 25, 2012
Riccardo Tisci once again reworks the essence of classic Givenchy style. Dark romance has become the quintessential POV of Tisci and for spring/summer 2012 he developed his moody looks with a 20s/30s spin. Referencing two period films, ‘Metropolis’ and ‘Aelita’, the collection finds inspiration in the early Art Deco design movement. Using a palette of black, white and brown, floor length, figure-hugging dresses were stitched with alligator skin and delicate crystal embroidery on chiffon and silk were awe gazing, and highlighted Tisci’s remarkable skill as an artisan. The tough cropped jackets in chocolate brown saw the same star motif that appeared in Givenchy’s menswear show. The contrast of the sportswear jacket with an opulent black gown gave a modern edge to the classic couture shape. This modernised and tougher feel was amplified with a bejewelled pair of wide-leg trousers paired with a simple white tank top.
Tisci’s obscure touches – giant nose rings and chandelier length earrings — gave the collection a distinctive streetwise edge and created a modern vision of highly entrancing couture. This Taranto, Italy-native is skilled at creating timeless pieces and the Gothic romance he has mastered is now the essence of Givenchy.
The basketballs that appeared beside the models, the giant zips, chains holding up trousers and the tank top gave the glitzy twenties inspired couture pieces a strong edge. Tisci, once again shows off his vision of the ideal powerful, tough yet beautiful woman.
