In a show that was evocative of the decadent twenties, this season David Koma interweaved sharp tailored suits amidst sensual dresses for eye-catching structured looks.
With Beyoncé already amongst his fan base, David Koma’s ascent to fame is the story of any designer’s dream. Showing on the final day of womenswear at London Fashion Week, energy was still high as the crowd urged their way into the Somerset House Show Space. Once again exploring his trademark body-conscious dressing, Koma added an ancestral flare, combining influences from the lithe greyhound’s of Louis Icart’s Art Deco paintings with Bolidini’s portrayal of the Marchesa Luisa Casati’s charms. The standout feature of this collection was the volume, created using ruched draping on the fronts of dresses and coats, minimising the waist and enhancing the figure.
This season, Koma added a more masculine edge to his feminine designs, with tailored trousers and shirts with strict high collars recalling 1920s menswear. There were more minimal looks with straight, structured jackets paired with sleek trousers. However, the Casati inspired hardware and graphic detailing steered the looks into more dramatic territory. The female body is the muse behind each of Koma’s collections. Eyes were drawn to the waist, as the female silhouette was enhanced with skirts that flared at the hips.
The first looks were made up of a dark, industrial palette with a statement fur coat that spoke of the slender elegance of twenties decadence. As the show progressed, we moved into multi-coloured territory, with dresses embellished with sequin metallic and rainbow coloured fabric cascading from the waist. The exclusive footwear detailing was not to be missed. Designed in collaboration with Alain Quilici, unique heels imbued the looks with a fierce modernity.
For autumn/winter 2012, Koma added historical depth to his designs, clearly displaying his inspirations but with a futuristic undertone. The Georgian-born designer must always be admired for his ability to empower the female form, delivering dress with attitude and sculptural maturity.
Photos by Alejandro Cavallo