Old world grandeur and style icon Marlene Dietrich served as muses for Jasper Gardiva’s autumn/winter 2012 collection entitled, ‘Revolutionnaire Situation de la Forme’.
We ventured to the neo-Georgian Bloomsbury Hotel in London, for Jasper Gardiva’s autumn/winter 2012 show, where old world grandeur was the backdrop. As the room darkened, spotlights scanned the show space as a dramatic sound of sirens blared from speakers. This was a dramatic beginning to a collection celebrating 30’s style.
Titled “Revolutionnaire Situation de la Forme,” Gardiva took inspiration from different movements of the 1930s. The military shapes and detailing made a reference to the architectural philosophy of the Russian Constructivism, an artistic movement prominent in the Revolution. Many of the looks also displayed Gardiva’s determination to echo the spirit of 30’s actress and style icon, Marlene Dietrich. The sophisticated and strong designs merged the classic grandeur of this bygone era with modern functionality.
The collection celebrated luxury fabrics as the looks were constructed out of satin, cashmere and suede, and tailored in sharp, geometric lines. Double-breasted coats, dresses clinched in at the waist and wide swinging skirts were the focus of the collection. Moving away from his signature colour driven palette, this season Gardiva focused on muted tones of beige, olive, black and royal blue. Suggestive golden details in the form of eye-catching buttons and pompous chains created a utilitarian silhouette. While capturing the essence of the contemporary woman, this collection was a real homage to 30s trends.
Gardiva had a strong vision of his contemporary Dietrich girl: confident, and in command. With such a classic reference point, Gardiva’s AW design’s successfully transferred the luxury and grandeur associated with 30’s style into the modern limelight.
Photos by Alejandro Cavallo