Bernard Chandran's latest outing is a marriage of his signature structure with a dose of 50s glamour.
Bernard Chandran’s futuristic aesthetic was given a vintage twist this season. Showcased to an eclectic soundtrack of Motown and R-n-B, the collection married Chandran’s signature structure with a healthy dose of 1950s glamour — a combination that made for some striking silhouettes.
Silk shifts came adorned with oversized pussy bows, and flirty tulip dresses were deconstructed with asymmetric panelling and swatches of texture. Zips were also a major feature and gave the lady-like dresses a directional edge. It was certainly Chandran’s innovative use of fabrics that proved the highlight of the show. There were embroidered metallics, delicate netting, feathers and silks. The fine materials looked casually tacked together, giving the line a feeling that was at once laid back and lavishly decadent.
Accessories also followed the 50s theme, and elegant lace gloves were paired with blue eye make-up reminiscent of cat’s-eye sunglasses. The bags came oversized and slouchy, crafted using coordinating materials to match the dresses. Drama heightened as the show progressed. Muted hues were replaced with vivid colours (most notably in the form of a show-stopping dress in shocking pink) and the 50s associations were gradually engulfed by a more prominent space-age feel, culminating in a full-length hooded cocoon dress.
Chandran’s SS12 collection maintains the designer’s reputation for adventurous dressing. While giving a nod to the past, the Malaysian designer has managed to assert a sartorial style that remains avant garde and current, resulting in a covetable look for the modern woman.