For their Spring Summer offering, Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg put on a dramatic show of avant-garde deconstruction, creating looks that were a mesmeric depiction of modern life.
RUNWAY-PARIS | KATE WHITE | September 29, 2011
For their Spring Summer offering, Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg put on a dramatic show of avant-garde deconstruction, creating looks that were a mesmeric depiction of modern life.
The Indian Dutch duo have been described in previous seasons as presenting a ‘tattered glamour’, their SS 2012 collection was a reinterpretation of this through an assimilation of their favoured design techniques. To each collection Peachoo brings her love and experience of interior design and merges it with Krejiberg’s knowledge of Japanese and contemporary design, perfected by his time working with Kenzo Takado at Kenzo. The result is an architectural approach combined with traditional couture techniques creating sharp cuts, obscure placements on the body and beautiful draping.
From a blood red jewelled top with threads of material dripping down onto a white dress, to a canary yellow dress made out of multiple layers of material distinctive for its volume and evocation of a bird of paradise: the SS 2012 collection drew upon traditional styles and transformed them into structured modes of modernity, where each look was created out of the designer’s mutual love for avant-garde deconstructions of volumes and proportions. Playing with soft and supple fabrics, silk was the foundation upon which they experimented with asymmetry and draping. Sheer chiffon merged with other fabrics was called upon to present the Peachoo & Krejberg aesthetic of contrast.
Never designing with a specific inspiration, their belief remains the same: to design modern clothes with a soul, and to always move ahead with the times and influences. The SS12 collection showed no movement away from this ethos, the designs were a celebration of the power of deconstruction and a strong vision to approach traditional techniques and styles with a modern signature.
