Tsumori Chisato has always transferred her experiences into designs and this season proves to be no different.  With a recent trip to Cuba sparking a foray into 50s pinups and tropical sanctuaries, this collection takes a trip through whimsical fantasy with mermaids encased in sequins and trees bearing fruits of raffia.

Spring 2012 saw Chisato make reference to an amalgamation of tropical climates in her usual whirlwind of textures and colours. Cutesy animals adorned many a garment, with toucans and monkeys interacting with palms of raffia whilst sequins-embellished mermaids and snakes slithered across skirts in unconventional stripes.

Texture, always a focal point of Chisato, didn’t disappoint with a mix of zigzagging crochets, sequined embellishments and unique appliques. From fantastical carvings on the shoes to matching parasols and prints and cutesy crocodiles parading on the bags, when it comes to adornment, Chisato exceeds all expectations. Raffia appliques were the biggest surprise, appearing in a variety of incarnations from hula skirts to palm leaves.  Indeed, one of the standout looks from the collection was the palm tree shirt that boasted a silk base, raffia palms and intricate sequined sand. When paired with loose orange leather capris it creates a clash of fabrics that would never work in a normal context, but Chisato’s attention to detail ensures a clean and chic result.

The trends were there yet, of course, infused with the whimsical nature that Chisato is famous for: the midi dress rejuvenated with crocheted palm leaves and faces of monkeys, the pale leathers infused with a tropical oasis straight from the South Pacific and the 30s and 50s were referenced with classic winged sunglasses, retro circular prints and deconstructed florals.  Nevertheless, the line between cutesy-chic and completely overboard was treaded carefully with the out-there designs and colourful prints balanced by a background of neutrality and earthy browns.

Two general silhouettes and stories played out through the collection.  Looser structures were contrasted with retro feminine silhouettes with a somewhat traditional Japanese point of view.  The mannish, relaxed fit held true to Chisato’s traditional style of soft pastels, manga-esc characters and bright prints.  Conversely, the more feminine and structured fit appeared largely in darker hues of browns and blacks with bold pops of red and orange, hinting at a lingering influence of fall’s earthy tones. The quirky prints and embellishments were still there, just more subdued in nature. The final pieces of the collection worked to combine both silhouettes and palettes, evoking a sense of poolside glamour with soft silks and floral prints within a looser, less structured fit.

Although not everyone may work an entire Chisato ensemble, what’s great about this collection is its versatility. The intricate nature of each item guarantees a statement addition to any outfit and with a variety of fits and hues to suit any mood, from cutesy animals to more subdued tonal prints, you can really let go and let your imagination soar.