Soft pastels and huge amounts of tulle are everywhere this season, and Valentin Yudashkin is no different. With a strong grounding in starched whites, Spring pastels take flight in a collection that manages to ride the right side of pretty in every piece, leaving a feeling of ethereal femininity in the air.

Known for delicate appliques of beads, pearls and rhinestones, Yudaskin definitely has a very Russian aesthetic for embroidery. Yet, his embellishments continue to remain strongly grounded by simplistic structure and design, and this season proves to be no different. Yudashkin indeed references the ‘pretty’ trend of Spring utilizing subdued pastels and soft prints, and yet, by grounding the collection in a strong starched white, he provides the perfect combination of sass and structure to ensure his vision is entirely his own. These two contrasting movements work to counterbalance one another throughout the collection, resulting in a sleek sensibility and ethereal mood resonating in every look.

Sophisticated white-based looks work to evoke a strong resortwear vibe with crisp cottons, sleek lines and soft silks swimming against the skin. These looks, although physically soft, reference a strong, sassy woman through sharp tailoring and masculine shirts and jackets.

The second movement is that of intricate beading and soft, feminine florals. Yudashkin picks up on Spring’s girly trend with soft pinks, lilacs and blues yet doesn’t go overboard, pairing it back with simple structures and clean lines. Delicate fabrics and demure shapes combine in these stunning dresses, with stiff silk organza creating perfect A-line cuts in whimsical layers that Cinderella herself would be jealous of.

The hemline throughout the collection is generally short and above the knee, however there are of course, a number of spectacular gowns. In an interesting turn, a simple tank and maxi combo is perhaps the standout of the show. Without any added embellishment this look is testament to Yudashkin’s skill as the sleek lines and subtle cut provide nothing else for the designer to hide behind. Interestingly this pure simplicity has produced one of the most striking looks of the collection, yet nevertheless the other gowns are not to be dismissed. These will undoubtedly feature high during awards season, providing a more embellished, glamorous aesthetic with immodest thigh high slits and sheer fabrics hinting at a more seductive undertone.

Whilst gorgeous gowns and sleek separates feature heavily, the focus this season, for Yudashkin at least, is on the jacket. Reincarnated throughout the collection, the jacket is presented in a variety of highly wearable ways; leather and sporty in all white, floral and embellished, cropped and creped in duck egg blue, long, sharp and structured, sheer with intricate beading, or mid length and masculine in the softest white silk, and the list goes on. Within the collection, Yudashkin presents no less than 11 different jackets, with each one providing a different interpretation, a different occasion, a different mood.

Interestingly, very few accessories accompany the collection. Sleek Celine-esc bags with clean lines in neutral leathers hint at a 1950’s influence, whilst simple heels in lilac or white leather enhance looks without vying with them for attention. That is how this whole collection pans out sleek lines, beautiful fabrics and subtle yet exquisitely executed appliques and embellishments, all working together to present the perfect ‘effortless chic’. This woman knows what she wants and isn’t afraid to try and get it, yet conversely she is also refined, subtle and always perfectly presented. Such contrast is the mood of the collection.

Overall, this is a highly wearable collection, with each look styled perfectly. Despite a multitude of design techniques utilized, all elements are finished with an iconic ease and simplicity that is distinctively Yudashkin: soft yet structured femininity.